DRAGUIN EXOTICS

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Housing:

Snake/Lizards:

There are many vivarium types available: glass and wood are the main two. Depending on whether your snake/lizard is ground, water or tree dwelling will decide on the type of housing suitable for that particular trait. The main areas to consider when sorting a home for your snake/lizard are:

It needs to be of suitable size - depending on what your snakes/lizards natural environment is. The size will also depend on how many snakes/lizards there are in the one vivarium. A general rule of thumb for Snakes is...the house needs to be half as wide as the snake is long and two thirds as long as the snake, so if you have a 6 foot snake, the house will need to be 3 feet wide and 4 feet long.

It must be escape proof - all snakes/lizards will try to escape! Even through holes/gaps you may think are too small.

The materials used in construction should be easy to clean, strong and durable. We prefer front opening doors, as this seems to stress the snake/lizard out less than top opening - as you are not coming in from directly above.

During construction - or even with ready made housing - all cracks/joints should be sealed (preventing leakage of water/waste) and also so mites/bacteria cannot breed here.

If the snake/lizard is ground dwelling - a big base is prefered. If the snake/lizard is a burrowing snake/lizard there needs to be alot of substrate to allow this (and the base must be able to contain this). If the snake/lizard is tree dwelling, there should be lots of climbing areas available and the vivarium should be quite high. If the snake/lizard is water dwelling, then a large suitable water bowl should be provided.

For heating there are many artificial types available - heat tubes, heat bulbs, heat mats. Each species will require different temperatures, but all will require a form of temperature control - thermostats/thermometers/temperature gauges/dimmer controls to name but a few that are available. All heating equipment should be meshed off - protected so that the snake cannot get to it, as they will burn themselves.

Many snakes do not require UV lighting - and some snakes do not require lighting at all (it is aesthetic only). A photoperiod should be established (day/night) - usually 12 hour day and 12 hour night - as this lessons any stress-related problems. Flourescent tubes/halogen bulbs/regular bulbs are commonly used - or even just natural light from a window.

Most lizards will require UV lighting - a photoperiod will need to be established, usually 13 hour day and 11 hour night. Reptisun and Arcadia UV tubes are the most commonly used. ALL lighting should be meshed off, for both snakes and lizards.

Ventilation and humidity often go hand in hand. The humidity will depend on the species of snake/lizard and a humidity monitor should always be used. By drilling holes in the top of the vivarium on one side and in the bottom of the vivarium on the opposite side will ensure adequate air flow through the house (or by buying and installing ventilation grilles) - again make sure the snake/lizard cannot fit through!

Various substrates can be used - wood chips/newspaper/astroturf/gravel - to name a few. It depends on what you want the substrate to do - absorb, look pleasing, etc. It needs to be suitable for the snake/lizard, easy to clean and will not cause impaction if accidently swallowed during feeding.

Various materials can be used as hides - old upturned plant pots, boxes, ready made hides - as long as it is dark, secure and easy to clean and the snake/lizard can get in and out easily, it should be fine. Furnishings will add to the hide spaces as the snakes/lizards will have extra cover and shade and this can also help to reduce any stress.

 

Tortoise: There should be two areas,

Oudoor - Large as possible with easy access to the indoor area and VERY escape proof - as they are excellent climbers and impressive escape artists! There should be weeds and wild flowers growing in this area, along with areas of shade. There should be a small rough surface to allow the tortoise to keep its claws worn.

Indoor - Could be a room in the house, conservatory, garage or shed. The floor should be easy to fully clean and the area as a whole should be damp-proof and dry. A bedding area should be provided (an open front box with shredded paper?). Heating should be provided during the day and unless it is freezing there should be no heating at night.

 

Turtles: Generally kept in a large pool with filtration units and heated water (depending on where the species comes from).

 

Terrapins: In their enclosure they need two areas; basking and cool. Generally in a pool with rocks for basking at one end, this is where the basking spotlights would be placed (meshed off). The other end of the pool should be cooler. Filtration is a must along with heated water (dependant on your species).

 

Feeding:

Snakes: There are various foods available for your snake - depending on what they should and will eat. Most snakes will eat rodents (rats/mice) and rabbits as the main part of their diets - which will provide all the constituents of a balanced diet. Some snakes can be problematic with feeding and will only eat certain foods. The size of the food should NOT exceed the width of the snakes stomach - as a rule of thumb, but some snakes will not eat unless it is the size they want!

Provided that a balanced diet is in place, there should be no need to supplement it, but please be aware that the vitamin content of food tends to decrease with the length of time it is frozen for.

Using tongs/large tweezers to feed prevents the snake from biting you (generally!), but also the food will not have been handled by you and therefore will not smell of you. Never feed snakes together, always seperate them - preventing injury/death to each other.

 

Lizards: Depending on your species of lizard, will determine what type of food they will eat:

Herbivores: Leaves, fruit, veggies.

Carnivores: Mammals.

Insectivores: locusts, crickets, mealworms, etc.

Omnivorous - both meat and plant, but usually only in times of hardship in their natural environment.

A wide variety of whatever type of food the lizard eats should be offered. Many lizards will pick off the "best bits" and leave the rest, but a balanced diet is a must.

A vitamin supplement can be used 1-3 times a week, depending on the rest of the diet and the species. See your local Vet, reptile store or more detailed information on the species for further information.

Make sure that the vegetables/fruit/plant matter you are feeding is not harmful to the lizard, as some can build up in the lizards system and become harmful to the lizard.

Never feed cat/dog food to lizards.

 

Tortoise - 75% of the diet should be dandelion, wild pansies and other naturally grown weeds. The diet can be supplemented with: squash, celery leaves, fresh grass, parsley, turnip leaves/greens, radish, romaine lettuce, red cabbage, watercress, kohlrabi, alfalfa, bok choi - fruit should only be used as a treat.

Never feed a tortoise dairy produce or dog/cat food.

Calcium can be obtained from the diet, or from adding calcium carbonate to the food daily.

 

Terrapins/Turtles: Avoid large quantities of red meat. Earthworms, dead mice/pinkies, prawns in their sell, broad leaf watercress, smails, oxygenation weed. A small amount of kindey and liver can be fed, but calcuim should also be added. 

 

 

Health:

Snakes: There should be no abnormal lumps/bumps, no parasites, no retained skin (or retained spectacles). The eyes should be clear as well as the nostrils. The mough should be a healthy colour and there should be no extra mucus. They should move fluidly - no jerks or twitches and they should right themselves immediately if they are turned over. The cloaca should be clean.

 

Lizards: The limbs and body should have no lumps/bumps, no sores and the limbs should be strong not limp. There should be no parasites and no retained skin. The cloaca should be clean along with the eyes and nostrils and the mouth should be a healthy colour. There should be no jerky or twitchy movements.

 

Chelonia: There should be no damage/infection on or around the shell. The ears should be clear, as well as the eyes and nostrils. The mouth should be a healthy colour. The cloaca should be clean. There should be no abnormal lumps/bumps on the body or shell. There should be no twitchy or jerky movements.

 

As with all animals - each reptile will be different to the next. it is best to be aware of how your reptile behaves and looks normally, so if there are any areas of concern, you can pick them up early.

If you have any concerns, the best thing to do is have your Vet check them over.